Eyestylist

Silmo Preview: Danielle Rattray

The Scottish designer was inspired by the spirit of the 1960s for new directions in a collection which pursues musical inspiration to create a cool eyewear vibe 

Charm, individuality and an inimitable sense of British fashion edge, the eyewear collection by Danielle Rattray infuses very wearable design with a special attention to craftsmanship and fine finishing in details such as angles and bevels. Danielle told Eyestylist this week: “My 2024/25 design direction builds on the confident lines and colour signatures I love from my early collections, but now with some evolution towards curves and subtlety in the silhouettes. While the 23/24 collection came from a place more inspired by British rock ’n roll, the 24/25 spirit brings inspiration from musical eras I love from a little earlier. The 1960’s. Artists like Marianne Faithful and Nico. Strong, talented women who made their marks in a beautiful, stylish way. Hedy, Bibi, Riv all carry a new DNA and I am really excited about the new styles for 2025 too!”

Among the new elements highlighted is the introduction of the colour, Smoke / Jura in France. This is a tribute to the eyewear culture of the Rhone Alpes and Haut Jura, combining a warm yellow lens representing the iconic tones of the Haut Jura with a soft smoke 8mm acetate, representing the granite streets of my hometown Aberdeen, a dedication from Scotland to France. Above: model Jean by Danielle Rattray – photography by Paulina Pellowska

Danielle Rattray – model Jean has been handcrafted with bevels and angles – visible across the design

The fine angular shape Jean – in the sunglasses collection – has evolved from a mix of inspirations from eyewear of past eras  with modern international culture. The new Smoke / Jura is a feature of this model, which also comes in Ink blue / Navy and Polished Black / Copper.

Danielle Rattray: the Hedy model comes in Smoke / Jura

Model Hedy represents what is currently a trending oval shape generally in eyewear this season: Rattray’s interpretation is fresh and refined with a flattering shape and a little touch of genuine design quality that you can feel as soon as the frame is in your hands. The colours, including the pure black version, are chic and individual, and bring out the qualities of the fine acetate materials. For more information about Daniel Rattray read our interview with the designer at https://www.eyestylist.com/2023/05/one-to-watch-danielle-rattray-eyewear-designer/

For more information about the collection: www.daniellerattray.com

Silmo Preview: VAVA CL0025

The new CL0025 sunglasses by VAVA are a tribute to Byetone, artist and co-founder of raster-media 

Nominated for a Silmo d’Or in the prestigious category ‘Sunglasses “Eyewear designer”‘, the CL0025 is an exclusive new “future icon” for the brand, as their latest concept inspired by a deep correlation with music and a specific electronic musical genre – experimental electronic music. The design, which has been developed with a fastidious precision both in the references to the music style and in the architecture of the structure, and which is particularly eye-catching thanks to the shape of the bridge, recalls the streamlined features of a vinyl turntable, while the round shape of the lenses is a reference to vinyls by Byetone.

The metal bridge recalls VAVA’s post-industrial DNA as well as being influenced by raster (raster-media.net), the platform and label for experimental electronic music. Above: VAVA x raster – the unisex sunglass style CL0025 is a work of exceptional precision in design and concept, created as a tribute to Byetone

VAVA CL0025: an interaction between two elementary shapes – square and circle – characterises the design of the front – VAVA frames are produced in quality Mazzucchelli eco-friendly acetate and metal parts in 100% ecological aluminium (recyclable)

VAVA’s collaboration with raster-media together with the German artist, Olaf Bender aka Byetone, will be shown for the first time at Silmo in Paris. Find out more at www.vavaeyewear.com

About raster-media: More than a music label, a house of thought and a creative family, raster has made its place in the history of music due to its sonic finesse, depth of its manifestations and careful graphic design, along with their conceptual and procedural style. Founded in 1996, raster has released groundbreaking electronic music – creating and maintaining spaces for future-oriented experiments. In addition to music which has influenced subsequent generations through
production techniques, raster also published books (awarded), data carriers (awarded) and graphics, among others. Another aspect includes activities such as installation works, often realized in collaboration with well-known institutions. https://raster-media.net

Silmo Preview: design details shine again

The international optical event in Paris, opening on Friday 20th September, will see countless new collection launches and a spectacular array of new ideas and innovations in design…Eyestylist is delighted to preview some of the releases here below and in the coming days leading up to the show…..

From new, alluring colours and combinations to eye-catching surface design and material innovation, this year’s releases at the Paris fair promise ingenuity, originality and some extraordinary artistic touches – all elements that will continue to elevate eyewear as a unique accessory in the worlds of fashion and design, cultivating an exceptional feeling of desirability and individuality in a form of self-expression.  Above: Developments in surface decoration and surface tactility in eyewear design will be an interesting topic for Silmo 2024: exclusively for the Paris event, the Colour Edition ‘L’Intemporel’ in the 70700 model by LOOK from Italy, inspired by the modern ‘lived-in’ trend, will be presented for the first time. An innovative processing technique has made it possible to work with their signature Alumix material to create a fascinating “distressed” effect; according to Look, the material can be recycled without any compromise to its particular material characteristics – www.lookocchiali.it

Rose 3222 by Lafont Paris
RESPECT 3223 by Lafont Paris: berry tones in gradient to a subtle light blue

Colour stories are always a highlight on the Lafont stand at the Silmo Paris event: in previews of the new frame designs, playful graduated colour, expressive patterns – typical of the French brand – and chic bold tones of bright blue and deep purple suggested a revival of a beautiful richness of tones… the frames also point to a spectacular design variety executed with handcrafted finesse – to be revealed through their many new design concepts in Paris – from Friday. www.lafont.com

Architectural details: Sacha by henau eyewear

Henau Eyewear has established a niche collection of one-off silhouettes they describe as “eyewear couture”: pieces which blend functionality and avant-garde design. The new styles such as model Sacha explore traditional eyewear shapes such as the round  shape, interpreting it with a signature look that incorporates architectural design detailing, subtle use of colour combination or a fusion of saturated colour and translucency. A fantastic twist of art-inspired brightness is evident in some of the colour proposals and the two-tone variations.  www.henau-eyewear.com

Ceselli 150 at LAMARCA Eyewear

At LAMARCA Eyewear (Italy), model CESELLI 150 represents a new departure for the decorative flourishes in this beautiful creative acetate range. The frame features diagonal millings with chiselled and sandblasted elements that are completely unique in eyewear. At Silmo, LAMARCA will also present the new FUSIONI 146 – an iconic design which explores strong colour contrasts. www.lamarcaeyewear.com

LEINZ Eyewear from Berlin will show at SILMO – the label is shortlisted in the Silmo D’Or category – Technological Innovation in Eyewear Category

Since the advent of 3D printing, it has been a major challenge to achieve transparency for more lightness and beauty in the eyewear printing industry. A new 3D technology works with an acrylic-based liquid resin which results in a smooth, translucent surface when printed. Berlin eyewear designer LEINZ combines the established SLS 3D-printing process and the new technology in one frame, enabling them to create a new, futuristic aesthetic in eyewear design. Find out about the brand at https://leinzeyewear.de

Helen by Götti Switzerland – the acetate frame has an attractive graduated effect incorporating several tones of colour

Götti Switzerland has announced a selection of new releases for adults and children for Silmo 2024. Among the highlights will be frames in a range of luxurious materials including acetate, titanium and buffalo horn. As well as inspiration from the 1980s, the company has revealed some particular design details in the new range, including sophisticated ombré colour nuances, fine-edged frames with filigree details and classics that offer a timeless beauty for those who seek out beautifully made products that will stand the test of time. www.gotti.ch

Silmo Paris takes place from Friday 20th September to Monday 23rd September 2024. Visit www.silmoparis.com for more information about visiting the fair and to access the latest Exhibitor list. For more previews with Eyestylist, follow our website in the run up to the fair.

Silmo Preview: Gigi Studios’ VANGUARD

Bold, contemporary designs characterise the Vanguard collection, a collection by the Spanish fashion eyewear brand from Barcelona

Gigi Studios is previewing new models in its sun and optical collections, including the popular Vanguard range which fuses sophistication and “a fashion-forward attitude”. The new additions in the Vanguard Optical and Sunglass collections have strong architectural shapes and feature a range of unique gradient acetates, crafted after numerous trials –  to achieve the ideal shades. Above: unisex model Lumi has an aviator inspired shape, and features in Gigi Studios’ new campaign called “Good Luck”

Rosalia by Gigi Studios: the frame feels like a mask and has subtle bevels to create a trendy finish

Models Anja and Rosalia in the Vanguard collection have an earthy and ochre-infused colour palette to capture the essence of the Autumn/Winter season, with subtle highlights to enhance the designs. Among the sun models are gradient effects which have been meticulously developed in vertical and horizontal lines to achieve the collection’s feminine and vanguardist aesthetic.

Roberta in the Vanguard collection by Gigi Studios: a large, modern shield design – above, the oval Anja sunglasses with a gradient effect

Vanguard is known for its daring, statement shapes sculpted from lightweight acetates, showcasing intricate angles and bevels. In the new designs, technical advancements have been at the forefront of the development of the collection with the introduction of new hinges and customized components engraved with the Gigi Studios logo. At Silmo, Gigi Studios will also show new designs in the Icons, Mens and Lab collections. Find out more at www.gigistudios.com

Silmo preview: Mystique ombré glasses by Ørgreen Optics

The 70s inspired Mystique style is one of three new acetate designs among the new releases for SILMO Paris

A frame which explores a 1970s aesthetic with trending ombré colourways, the new Mystique optical glasses from Ørgreen Optics, designed as a bold statement in the Danish company’s acetate collection, brings a new approach to graduated colour in eyewear. Called the “halo colour palette” by Ørgreen, in a comparison with halo hair colourations, the tones for the Mystique model range from nostalgic hues to vibrant psychedelic tones – in a horizontal gradient shading that has the effect of lighting up and softly enhancing the complexion. The frame is being released in six distinctive colours, of which there are four very fetching feminine ombré variations in clear lemon and caramel, brown crystal and geranium pink, clear dark shadow and citrine yellow and transparent rose violet and crystal crimson. Above: the Mystique model, a new eye-catching graduated acetate frame from the Danish eyewear company

The colours of the Mystique model – a very refined interpretation of the trending ombre effect in eyewear – brown crystal + geranium pink

The new frame is released alongside model Muse and model Candy Cane XS in the Acetate collection at Ørgreen, models which blend timeless elegance and a cutting-edge aesthetic thanks to the precise design work and craftsmanship adopted by Ørgreen and their innovative approach to colour and colour combinations via the expertise of Senior Colour Designer, Sahra Lysell. Find out more about the releases at www.orgreenoptics.com