Interview exclusive: Oscar Mamooi

A multi-faceted designer, Oscar Mamooi has lived many lives as a stylist, illustrator and door selector of a prestigious Milanese nightclub, among other ventures. Since 2020, Mamooi has harnessed his flair for life and channelled this energy into producing fearless, avant-garde eyewear collections that embrace the power of self-expression, each frame empowering their wearer to see life with clarity, light and positivity. Eyestylist’s feature writer Victoria G. L. Brunton speaks to Mamooi on sustainability, dream muses and upcoming projects…

Tell us a bit about your professional journey…Before arriving in the world of eyewear, I held various roles thanks to my eclectic and always lively personality, characterized by a constant search for new work stimuli. This way of being has led me to work as a stylist for various fashion magazines. At the same time, I held the role of “door selector” at the historic Milanese club Killer Plastic.

I have always had a sort of obsessive mania for sunglasses, ardently wanting to create my own line that would break the mould of the current market. My goal was to create an object that was not only aesthetically beautiful, but capable of telling a story and conveying a unique personality. From this desire was born my first collaboration with the “Celebration” project, for which I dedicated a pair of glasses to the fashion journalist Anna Piaggi. (Note: view on Eyestylist.com in 2014  at https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/09/anna-piaggi-fashion-influential/)

Subsequently, I had the opportunity to learn about Prophilo, the company that currently produces the Oscar Mamooi line, furthering my dream of innovating and revolutionising the eyewear industry. Above: portrait of the designer

A signature piece: the SAINT by Oscar Mamooi – “a beacon of bold provocative elegance” – 2024

Which of your frames or collections best represents you as a designer, and why? I am particularly fond of the asymmetrical and glacial silhouette that bears the name Pluto, and I believe it fully reflects my ever-changing creativity, embodying the incessant search for new horizons.

You cite inspiration in the connection between man and nature, can you explain this further? How does it manifest in physical frames? Organic shapes and lines can be key elements in the creative process, offering stimuli to generate elements inspired by nature. In summary, the connection between man and nature manifests itself in man’s vision through natural shapes, colours and textures, combining aesthetics and details that evoke the natural world. This approach creates visually and tactically pleasing products, promoting a message of sustainability and respect for the environment.

The physical frame can be manifested through the vision of what you intend to create and express. This idea guides the entire creative process and translates into an element that tells a story or evokes specific emotions. For example, a collection inspired by modern architecture might incorporate clean lines, sharp angles and innovative materials.

OM Vespertine – vibrant hues and bold sculpted structure

What is your view on sustainability across the fashion industry / with reference to eyewear? Sustainability in the fashion industry has become an essential priority, and this also applies to the eyewear industry. I firmly believe that the eyewear industry can and should play a significant role in reducing environmental impact. Many brands are already adopting eco-friendly materials such as biodegradable and recycled acetate, wood and bamboo, as well as recycled metals. This not only decreases our dependence on non-renewable resources, but also reduces waste.

Furthermore, production processes are becoming increasingly efficient and environmentally friendly, thanks to the use of advanced technologies that reduce waste and energy consumption. Transparency in the production chain and environmental certifications also play a crucial role in ensuring sustainable and ethical practices.

If you could choose anyone in the world to be your muse or campaign star, dead or alive, who would it be, and why? I can do no more than think about Grace Jones. With her perfect personality, capable of simultaneously embodying Parisian elegance and Jamaican allure, she is an immortal style icon. Her wild, dazzling, and androgynous presence made every appearance a memorable event. Her ability to transform sunglasses into a distinctive and bold accessory is unmatched, contributing to defining a timeless style that continues to inspire.

Oscar Mamooi optical collection – captivating and bold with colour

What are you planning for the new season, creatively speaking? Nature will continue to be the predominant element of my creations. There will be new concepts inspired by natural elements, infusing our collections with organic shapes, textures and colours found in the natural world. This approach not only allows us to create unique and innovative designs, but also underlines our connection with nature.

If you didn’t work in the optical industry, where do you think you would work / what would you do? If I wasn’t working in the optical industry, I think I would take up painting. Creativity and artistic expression have always been a key part of my life and give me a great sense of fulfilment. Painting would allow me to further explore my love for colours, shapes and textures, and to communicate emotions and ideas in a visual way. I believe that art, in all its forms, is a powerful medium for connecting people and telling stories, and I’m fascinated by the idea of being able to contribute to this universal dialogue through my expressiveness.

Will you exhibit at SILMO Paris in September? Yes, I will be present at SILMO Paris with many new features. I can’t wait to present our latest collections, which combine innovative design and refined details. This event represents a unique opportunity to share our passion for artisan excellence with an international audience. We are preparing a series of new models inspired by natural elements, with sculpted details that I believe will surprise and fascinate visitors. I look forward to meeting colleagues, customers and enthusiasts in the sector to discuss future trends and our creative visions. www.oscarmamooi.com