September 2014

Max

1st September 2014

Savile Row

Eighteen carat rolled gold and luminous acetate are among the highlights in the latest Savile Row Collection to be presented at the Paris fashion eyewear fair Silmo. The new designs have an intriguing history. Max is a tribute to the forefather of Savile Row – Max Wiseman. Shapes are inspired by National Health Service frames for the 1940’s and 50’s. The designs are made exclusively at Algha Works factory in London, and compiled entirely from tooling that lay hidden in factory archives. Details that single out Max as a distinctive design include the nose bridge that extends to the temples, and the perfectly round shape. www.algha.com JG

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Tim Van Steenbergen

1st September 2014

1st September 2014 Belgian designer Tim Van Steenbergen discusses with Eyestylist his collaboration with avant-garde eyewear brand theo and his fashion inspiration.

How did the collaboration develop between your label and theo eyewear? “I met Mik, the son of theo’s big boss Wim Somers in 2008 at a fashion show, in a well-known concept store in Moscow called Cara & Co, where both theo glasses and my clothes are sold. Once back in Antwerp, the first appointment was quickly arranged.”

What do you find the most interesting about creating eyewear – and the most frustrating – if anything! “I find it very interesting how you can reach a wider audience with eyewear, and that audience is willing to step out of its comfort zone. It’s apparently easier to choose a more extreme pair of glasses than it is to wear an eye-catching outfit. For me, eyewear is also a way to complete a silhouette. I can create a total look. The most frustrating yet fascinating – is how a garment never has a fixed form, while with designer eyewear, the form of the frame never changes. The disadvantage is that afterwards you can’t change it any more to make it fit. You see, it works in both ways.”

Regal Eyewear - Tim Van Steenbergen for theo — Regal Eyewear – Tim Van Steenbergen for theo

What is your favourite material in which to design clothing – and eyewear? “I tend to use classic materials like horn or tortoise, but it becomes interesting when combining these materials. Then you create something exciting. In my clothing line, I do the same. I use different kinds of classic textiles to create interesting forms.”

Autumn/Winter 2014/15 Fashion Design by Tim Van Steenbergen

You have created other accessories in addition to eyewear – bags, shoes, and jewellery. Are there other items you would like to design? “I don’t like to tie myself down to one discipline. After all, you can translate ideas into so many things. It’s just a matter of interpretation. The message is most important!”

Do you have any favourite inspirations? “To live, to love, to travel…I find inspiration in a mix of things. I’m like a sponge. I absorb everything I see. And then I let it seep through in my designs.”

Magic and Mystery - Shadows by Tim Van Steenbergen for theo — Magic and Mystery – Shadows by Tim Van Steenbergen for theo

You have designed for the Opera – is there a particular opera for which you would like to design the costumes? “Madame Butterfly! I would love to create the costumes for this romantic opera that makes everybody cry! Pure emotion! For the moment, my next sunglass collection together with theo eyewear is ready to be launched later this month at SILMO. So keep an eye out for them!” www.timvansteenbergen.com www.theo.be JG

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Trend watch: Animal magic

1st September 2014

New ways with print

1st September 2014 Designers revisit the beautiful effects of animal prints across the accessories segment, and in eyewear, the story is seductive. Print is nothing new of course but it’s resurgence is elegant and imaginative; no two prints are the same, adding to the appeal. Swedish designer Anna-Karin Karlsson is consistently creative with luxurious print effects, and proposes an exotic hallmark tiger print combined with fantastic colour on what has become one of her bestselling sunglass styles, ‘Alice Goes to Cannes’. www.annakarinkarlsson.com

Zac Posen - preview: launching October 2014 — Annabella by Zac Posen – preview: launching October 2014

Available next month, Annabella is one of the new women’s opticals from American fashion designer, Zac Posen: a classic silhouette meets the mood of the moment in a subtle natural print inspired acetate. www.zacposen.com / www.kenmarkoptical.com

Wild Love in Africa - Etnia Barcelona — Africa 02 / Wild Love in Africa – Etnia Barcelona

And from Spain, Etnia Barcelona draws on inspiration from Africa and a number of species from its exotic animal kingdom: a soft natural palette in the “Wild Love in Africa” collection features interpretations of cheetah, havana giraffe, horn and zebra.

“Wild Love in Africa” frames are produced in 100% eco-friendly acetate, made using natural organic compounds that are 100% recyclable and biodegradable. www.etniabarcelona.com CN

Boutiques

Artsee Miami

1st September 2014

Sharing the couture passion

1st September 2014 Artsee Miami is eyewear paradise. One of the specialists in unique frames in this part of the world, expect to find the spectacular, the unusual and an exciting taste for creative accessories by innovators and iconic designers – oh, and beautiful art too. Eyestylist spoke to owner Carlos Venegas about his unique concept and views on eyewear trends.

“The Miami store is many ways the representation of 10 years of operation in NYC and the evolution of our concept,” explains Venegas. “There are two art walls on each side of the door, we use them for the different art shows we curate though out the year…art is a main part of what we are; we sell art and the glasses to see it.” Asked about the choice of eyewear collections, Venegas explains his dedication to independent labels, including theo and Claire Goldsmith, and a detailed knowledge of eyewear materials and vintage frames. “We carry few collections at the store, all of them handmade; we curate our eyewear the same way as we do with our art shows. This place is almost a museum; we have great relationships with the different designers, we all share the couture passion. You can always find something different, whether its the material – wood, horn, recycled vinyl records – or the colours or a vintage design; every frame has a special touch, making them unique.”

Alongside emerging labels, Carlos has a close relationship with the Christian Roth label, whose founders, Christian and Eric, are based in Miami for a part of the year. “Often times we partner with companies to intervene in our store space, to do something different that represents their inspirations and concepts behind their eyewear – it can be anything from music to video screenings. The perfect example is the Christian Roth Collection; as one of the icons in eyewear design, we are very proud to represent their new magnificent line, which was launched at our store. Christian and Eric are always interested in hearing feedback from our customers to improve and inspire new creations, which is amazing! We can give people the chance to meet them personally at our frequent events. As a matter of fact, within the next couple of weeks, they will be launching their newest design exclusively at our store, with a little surprise…!”

And alongside icons are the new emerging talents from other parts of the world. “It is very interesting to see a lot of new designers emerging; there is definitely a big boom for wood and natural materials. Unfortunately, most of them do not have the quality we search for. Often times, creators are looking for the `cool´ factor over functionality, many of those new frames won´t handle a new set of lenses. Glasses should be able to handle multiple prescriptions and fit different needs. There are of course great new brands, such as Rolf Spectacles, with their stunning craftsmanship and innovation using wood, horn and stone. I have also noticed a lot of people are into vintage eyewear; this is a great opportunity for us to revisit earlier designs and learn a little history.”

Carlos says that the Artsee experience is all about recommending specific frames for individuals, and bringing something exceptional out of a hidden cabinet when the time is right, and the customer presents themselves. “From the moment a client comes in we are already thinking what would be the best options to fit their style. We ask a few questions to know what they use their glasses for and what type of prescription they have so we can fit their needs. But our followers come expecting to find something new and exciting! Our dearest customers come in, take a seat and say, “Give me whatever you think is going to look good on me!” …they trust us. We are always up for funky stuff and cool colours!”

Visit Artsee Miami at 1658 Lenox Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida – www.artseemiami.com CN